From Willard to Alpinist: How Seiko Watch Hands Secretly Shape Your Perfect Timepiece

What draws an individual to a particular watch? Why did they pick this one and not some other that looks almost the same? Is it solely the design, or the technical features, or the price tag? Questions and dilemmas can go on and on in an endless thread, and the manufacturers would sign a blank check to anyone who comes up with a definite answer.

The most interesting finding from similar surveys is that every little detail matters, and sometimes the things rarely discussed are the ones that pull the plug. Hand design holds one of the top positions among features often overlooked as an essential factor when choosing a perfect watch. Not only that, but a significant number of notable watchmakers sometimes do not give them due notice during the design process.

Seiko has always had a different approach. Not only have their designers made the hands integral to the overall watch design, but they have also used them to reflect the character, purpose, and heritage of individual watch series. Let's discuss the select 10 that perfectly show how Seiko's hand designs have become signature elements defining entire watch families.

Vintage 6105-8110 Diver & Prospex SPB151 Captain Willard (2020 edition)

No discussion of Seiko heritage can go without mentioning the infamous Captain Willard watch. When its unusual dial aesthetics are the topic, a functionality-first, good-looks-later approach is always praised. Shoulder to shoulder with oversized rectangular hour markers, stand solid, baton-shaped hour and minute hands, with their rounded edges, slightly pointed tips, and luminous fills, as an essential factor in ensuring sufficient readability despite the harsh conditions of the Vietnamese jungle.

What rounds out the ultimately functional readability despite all conditions is the infamous seconds hand. Nicknamed stoplight, traffic light, or lollipop for its distinctive shape, and a round lume plot near the tip with a red section below, it became one of the fundamental features that mark both the original watch and all of its later editions. Both the vintage version and the 2020 edition are featured in the photos for comparison.

Naturally, the younger member is new and improved, but the traits of the padrone genes are clearly evident in the design. The hour and minute hands are a tad larger, slightly more pointed at the tip, and feature a split finish with brushed and polished sections and LumiBrite. On the other hand, the seconds hand is identical and unmistakably reveals its roots.

Vintage design meets modern watch straps for a combo that fits any occasion. Left: Vintage Seiko 6105-8110 Automatic 150m Diver Watch with a Tropical-Style Pro FKM Rubber FKM Black Rubber Quick Release Strap, Right: Seiko Prospex SPB151 Captain Willard 2020 edition Black paired with a  FKM Black Rubber Diver Strap

SKX013 Midsize Diver & SKX007 Diver's 200m

The SKX is another legendary Seiko watch family, and the SKX013 and SKX007 are its great representatives. One of the many features they share is the classic Seiko diver-style hour and minute hands. These are characterized by a pointed tip on the minute hand and a wide, arrow-shaped hour hand, both entirely filled with LumiBrite to ensure excellent visibility during diving.

The hands on SKX013 are smaller, naturally, due to the smaller case compared to SKX007. The hour hand is approximately 8.5mm long and the minute hand is about 13mm long, while the corresponding SKX007 hands are up to 1mm longer. On the other hand, their second hands are key visual differentiators.

The SKX007 features a fine baton-style second hand with a round counterweight in lollipop style, while the SKX013 has a distinct lance-shaped second hand with a spade counterweight. Another interesting thing about their second hands is that, although the SKX013 has a smaller case, its second hand is wider and a bit longer than that of the SKX007. Once again, all with improved visibility in mind.

Seiko Divers display chameleon features, with classic, elegant stainless steel straps, they turn into classy, masculine combos.  Left: Seiko SKX013 Midsize Diver with an Endmill 20mm Stainless Steel Strap , Right: Seiko SKX007 Diver in pair with a Super-J Louis JUB Watch Strap

Prospex Diver SLA017 & Marinemaster MM300 SBDX017

These two watches are representatives of the Seiko Prospex family, another iconic Seiko watch series whose rise to wider recognition began when it became home to Japan's first-ever diver's watch, the iconic Seiko 62MAS. Large shoes to fill, by all means, but this pair does it without compromise.

SLA017 is the faithful reissue of the Seiko 62MAS, with every aesthetic detail taken into account. The hands play a significant role in reviving the timeless classic's spirit. SLA017 features a semi-wide baton-style hour hand, a thinner baton-style minute hand, and a slim seconds hand with a stoplight-style square at the tip and a counterweight. All are stainless steel, and the hour and minute hands have a brushed finish and polished edges. The latter two are generously filled with LumiBrite, just as is the stoplight square of the seconds hand.

The hands of the Marinemaster SBDX017 are a different story. The entire vibe of this 2018 watch is modern, and its hands are robust, distinct, and of multi-finish design. The hour and minute hands are broad, sword-shaped, while the seconds hand is a thin stick-style hand with a lollipop-style section dot near the tip and an elegant counterweight. Their surfaces are deep-brushed, and their edges are chamfered and polished.  The top parts of the hour and minute hands, and the lollipop section of the seconds hand, are packed with LumiBrite, fitting for a diver watch of this class.

Vintage meets modern, and vice versa, giving these two Prospex representatives a new dimension and applicability. Left: Seiko Prospex Diver SLA017 and an FKM Chaffle Black watch strap, Right: Seiko Prospex Marinemaster SBDX017 in combo with a Super Engineer II Watch Strap

Seiko 5 Sports SKZ209J1 Atlas Diver

Seiko 5 sports series, as the name suggests, focuses on reliable, durable watches for use in a wide range of sports environments. SKZ209J1 Atlas Diver is designated for genuine adventurers, covering both extreme earth and water sports. Its rugged, large, and bulky case makes it easily stand out from other Seiko 5 sports brethren.  Also, it is the premier Seiko 5 Sports watch to boast a water resistance of 200m.

Given all that technical dominance, the hand design seems a bit out of place, at least at first glance. All three hands look fragile compared to other elements, but the truth is completely different. Their width is larger than most hands on other Seiko watches of a similar vibe, while their length is standard for watches of this size. The hour hand is slightly shorter, all to ensure the best possible readability. Such a design approach makes SKZ209J1 Atlas Diver even more attractive.

Hand and minute hands are of prominent, arrow-shaped design, while the seconds hand is a stick-style hand with a discreet luminous triangle near the tip and proportional counterweight. All three hands are made of stainless steel and are supplied with a luminous filling for improved visibility. Another feature that makes them stand out is the silver finish, brushed and polished, which provides excellent contrast with the dark blue dial.

Q.R. Firewave Resilient Curved End FKM rubber Watch Strap is a no-brainer match for Seiko 5 Sports SKZ209J1 200m Atlas Diver, modern, elegant, and durable.

Prospex Green Alpinist SPB121J1

Here we have another reissue watch from the Prospex line, this time it's a direct descendant of the SARB017,  a watch that quickly became a cult classic. Going further up the family tree, they both trace back to the ultimate Alpinist, which came out in 1959. However, the design of modern relatives is drastically different from the original, so it would be hard to find common traits just by looking at them.

Prospex Green Alpinist SPB121J1 belongs to a famous bloodline but brings something new and special to the table. The technical specifications are superior to SARB017, though both watches share the same stunning green dial that has captivated collectors. The mesmerizing green dial and gold hour markers are breathtaking, and the hands are true gems.

Gold colored hands come in a distinctive, ornate cathedral style. The hour and minute hands are ample in size, while the seconds hand is needle-like, with a teardrop-shaped luminous section near the tip. LumiBrite is richly applied both there and on the hour and minute hands. This classic design is unusual for a field watch like the Alpinist; however, it's the style and color contrast that make the  Prospex Green Alpinist SPB121J1 so aesthetically memorable.

For a watch that carries 50 years of adventurous tradition, a masculine stainless steel strap is a natural choice that secures durability and comfortable wear. Seiko Prospex Green Alpinist SPB121J1, here paired with a Super-J Louis 20mm Stainless Steel Bracelet

Presage SSA361 Starlight Cocktail Time (Limited Edition)

In general, the production process and technical features determine the watch's price category. Still, there are times when it's hard to pinpoint it because of the rich aesthetics a watch carries, which makes it appear to belong to a higher category.  Seiko Presage SSA361 is the perfect example of those borderline cases since it dial puts it on the verge of belonging to the Grand Seiko series despite its multiple times lower price.

The secret behind the ultimate elegance appeal lies in the dial's glossy finish, applied no fewer than seven times, which gives it a canvas-like appearance and an authentic glow, with chameleon-like features under different lighting. What elevates it even more is the design of the hour markers and hands in particular.

The hour and minute hands are dauphine hands with a sandblasted finish on one half, while the seconds hand is needle-thin with a miniature diamond-shaped hollow counterweight. Seiko Presage SSA361 features two complications: the date and power reserve indicators, whose hands complete the ultimate aesthetic elegance. Namely, the power reserve indicator hand is shaped like a cocktail glass stem, with an accentuated tip for better readability. In contrast, the date indicator hand in the subdial is minuscule and baton-shaped, enhancing the watch's overall classy appearance and placing it several levels above its price range.

When paired with an Angus-J Louis 20mm Stainless Steel Watch Strap, Seiko Presage SSA361 Starlight's elegance levels up to just about any high-priced watch. 

Presage SARX019 Enamel Watch

Now we enter the timeless world of classic horology with Presage SARX019. The lush white enamel foundation, contrasted with classy, black Roman numeral sets the mood of this classic Japanese dress watch. The icing on the cake, when supreme elegance is concerned, is the hands.

The shape of the hour and minute hands is classic "leaf" or "lance" shape, tapered to a sharp yet mild point at both the base and tip. The second hand is a long, slender-looking needle with a circular counterbalance. These hands are heat-processed to achieve a deep, mesmerizing blue color, set against the enamel background for increased readability. The vintage-inspired aesthetics are completed by the gentle manual curving of the hands' tips to follow the subtle dome of the dial and the dual-curved sapphire crystal that protects it.

Once again, Seiko engineers have attained the heights of ultimate elegance with the Seiko Presage Automatic SARX019. Its enamel white dial and deep blue hands are even more radiant when paired with a Goma BOR Q.R. Stainless Steel Watch Strap

Prospex Kinetic GMT SUN023 & Land Master GMT SBEJ003

GMT watches are specific on several levels. Their tech specs need to be pristine for all the functions to operate flawlessly. On top of that, because of an extra hand circling the dial, designing them so as not to jeopardize readability at any time is a serious task. And the Seiko team tasked with designing GMT SUN023 and SBEJ003 passed the test with flying colors.

The hour hand of SBEJ003 is semi-hollow and arrow-shaped, and the minute hand is sword-shaped; both are silver-toned and filled with white LumiBrite to match the markers and ensure perfect readability. The seconds hand is a smaller-scale, arrow-style, hollow design, very similar to the hour hand, but bronze-colored to stand out from the other hands and to mirror the Seiko logo color.

The design of SUN023 is genuinely modern, with stunning color interplay on the dial and bezel. What particularly stands out is the hand design. Hour, minute, and second hands are all broad combinations of arrow, sword, and skeletonized designs, and come in different colors that match the colors of their corresponding scales for improved visibility. Another interesting design feature is that the tips of the hour and minute hands are syringe-like. Finally, the GMT hand is a needle-style skeletonized hand with a blue tip and a lollipop counterweight.

Modern vibe all the way, design, material, and color harmony: Left: Seiko Prospex Kinetic GMT Diver SUN023 paired with a 24mm Hexad (Pull-Twist) QR Watch Strap Right: Seiko Prospex Land Master GMT SBEJ003 in bold, head-turning combo with a Pam Collection, Orange French Crafted Barenia Leather Watch Strap that simply cannot go unnoticed in any setting

SRPH13 Monster Ninja Edition, King Samurai PADI SRPG21K1, & SPB081J1 (62MAS reissue)

The final choice is these three select watches to show how different their hand designs are, even though they all belong to the Prospex family. Let's start with the SRPH13, a part of the redesigned Samurai collection. Its hour hand is spearhead-shaped, a bit smaller than the usual arrowhead shape of previous generations, and the minute hand is wider at the base and narrows towards the tip in a sword-like line. The orange details are a nice touch, improving readability. The seconds hand follows the design of previous models, with the luminous triangle moved a bit closer to the tip.

Seiko King Samurai PADI Watch SRPG21K1's hour hand is a high-polished stainless steel frame with a short-arrow design. The minute hand is often referred to as a samurai sword design and features soft blue edges, tip, and base to match the color of the bezel markings. The second hand is super thin, featuring a gloss-black finish and a small white-painted tip. All three hands are filled with LumiBrite for optimal visibility in low-light conditions. The seconds hand is nearly identical to that of SRPH13.

Sea Green SPB081J1 (SBDC059) reissue 62MAS hands represent a significant departure from the original 62MAS design. The hour hand is large and of distinctive arrow style, the minute hand is in straight sword/batton style, both more complex and dominant compared to the original. The seconds hand is a stick hand of golden colored upper part and matte black counterweight, with a lollipop luminated circle on the bottom tip.

A modern design case smoothly transforms when paired with dominant straps. Left: Seiko SRPH13 Prospex Monster Ninja in contemporary package with a  FKM Wheels Resilient Curved End White Rubber Strap; Middle: Seiko Prospex King Samurai PADI SRPG21K1's classic elegance vibe with a Polished Center Stainless Steel Hexad Watch Strap; Right: Seiko Prospex Sea Green SPB081J1 (SBDC059) reissue 62MAS paired with a Stainless Steel Super-O Boyer Watch Strap in an elegant yet casual combo that suits any occasion.

The role hands play in a watch's overall design is often overlooked by the users. The truth is quite the opposite; hands are key players in dial readability and provide the final, and frequently most crucial, layer of its aesthetics. The hands easily change the overall vibe from traditional to modern, and vice versa. Seiko design teams have been aware of this from the very start of production and, if not never, then rarely, have forgotten to give due credit to the hand design, with their users surely thankful for such an approach.

Written by S.K, images by Toni