The People's Dive Watches: How Affordable Seikos Democratized Underwater Timekeeping - Part Two

The SKX lineup enters the affordable diver watch stage (and claims it)

In the years following the discontinuation of the Turtle series, Seiko continued to enlarge its divers' watch catalog. However, despite introducing several original and advanced models, they seemed to be losing the impact and fame gained with the Turtle models. After a number of dry years, something needed to happen to change things. The SKX entered the stage, took it by storm, and reclaimed the divers' watch throne for Seiko. What was the catch?

It was pretty simple; Seiko designers decided to go back to the proven formula of affordable divers suitable for everyone. Simultaneously, they added improvements without compromising the level of quality and durability, while maintaining affordability. And this time they scored even better.

The new era of Seiko divers started with Seiko SKX007 in 1996. There's no direct association with the famous secret agent, apart from the timeless classic elegance, masculine appeal, and durability under harsh conditions. The ISO certified 42.5mm case, with a black dial and bezel, simply cannot go unnoticed on anyone's wrist. Plus, it effortlessly complements any male dress code. A 4 O'clock crown, super-polished case sides, and brushed lug tops are standard for all SKX models.

A masculine driver all the way: Seiko SKX007 Diver's 200m Automatic Watch with a Goma BOR Stainless Steel - Brushed Watch Band for Seiko

Seiko SKX009 appeared at the same time as SKX007. It shares the same technical features described above, and both watches, just like all SKXs, are driven by the Seiko 7S26 automatic movement and boast 200m water resistance. The difference between the two models is in their aesthetic design. The SKX009 was nicknamed Pepsi due to its distinctive red colored initial 20-minute segment of the 120-click bezel. The final difference is dial color; SKX009 comes with a deep blue one. Overall, this color choice leans slightly more towards the casual side compared to SKX007.

Seiko SKX009 Diver's 200m Automatic Watch rugged looks enhanced by a SUPER Engineer II Brushed 316L Stainless Steel Curved End Watch Band

Seiko SKX013 is another notable member of the SKX family. It was designed for all SKX aficionados who have a smaller wrist and for whom wearing a hefty SKX007 or 009 looked unnatural and felt uncomfortable. Its design and specifications are identical to the SKX007, with a notable difference in size, featuring a 38mm case that was 12mm thick. There are only three differences when it comes to design: the minute and second hands, rehaut date display, and longer lugs.

Endmill all Brushed 316L Stainless Steel Watch Band is perfectly compatible with the Seiko SKX013 Midsize Diver 200m Automatic Watch. A slightly smaller case is elegantly enhanced with the half-moon-shaped solid links.

Seiko SKX023 completes the list of select SKX divers. It's a reduced version of SKX007, in terms of size and water resistance, but without jeopardizing any of the technical and functional features that the SKX series is famous for. The SKX023 measures 37mm in diameter and comes with 100m water resistance compared to 200m of the other three SKX watches mentioned here. A smaller diameter than the SKX013, but it comes with a larger lug-to-lug size, which puts it in the mid-sized category, a universal SKX model that fits a wrist of any size comfortably. There's one other feature that makes the SKX023 different from other SKX models featured here: the screw down crown sits at the 3 O'clock.

A fitting combination for all elegant occasions: Seiko Divers Automatic Mid-Size SKX023 paired with a 20mm Super-O Boyer Watch Band with a Diver Clasp

The SKX family has left a strong mark on Seiko's history. It made professional-grade features available to everyday enthusiasts, creating a cult following. The 007 and 009 were the first mechanical divers for many collectors, and even though over the years many other affordable divers became available, these remain to be one of the most popular affordable divers out there, even years after discontinuation.

Another area in the horology world where the SKX series has made an enormous impact is the modding culture phenomenon. It sparked the entire cottage industry of modifications, making watch customization accessible to hobbyists and building Seiko's modern reputation through grassroots enthusiasm.

Modern Prospex reissues

Such a cult following of the discontinued models creates a twofold mood among the avid fans; some are incredibly pleased that they own one of the watches that made history, while others are constantly looking for their chance of owning one. Luckily, Seiko had an ear for the longings of the latter and made several reissues of the most popular discontinued watches. Two top spots are occupied by the Prospex King Turtle SRPE03K1 and Captain Willard, both from 2020.

Seiko Prospex King Turtle SRPE03K1

King Turtle bears the genetic code of its older relative. It builds upon the case size and design of the original Turtle, keeps the 200m water resistance, and is driven by the trusty 4R36 movement. Naturally, the new generation evolves and comes with improvements.

King Turtle features Sapphire Crystal glass and a ceramic bezel with more pronounced grooves. An increased quantity of applied LumiBrite, a waffle-patterned dial surface, a magnifying lens over the day and date window, and a yellow seconds hand all contribute to the same goal: improved readability. So, for all those who want to go back in the day with the Seiko Turtle, without having to list the classified ads and forums to find a well-preserved and functional original, the Seiko King Turtle is a wise and elegantly improved choice.

Seiko King Turtle Prospex SRPE03K1 with a 20mm or 22mm Quick Release Orange Diver FKM Rubber Watch Strap for an utterly modern casual style with a touch of vintage feel of the original Turtle its design stems from

Seiko Captain Willard 2020 reissue

Reissuing one of the most famous watches from the catalogue is a big shoes-to-fill endeavor. Once more, Seiko passed with flying colors. And once again, the same reissue success formula was used: keep to the original features as close as possible and add modern improvements. The 2020 Captain Willard comes in three variants, features a slightly smaller 42.7 mm case strengthened by a super-hard coating, a Sapphire crystal glass, a 120 click unidirectional bezel, and a 6R35 automatic movement.

Was it worth the wait? By all means. Just like the King Turtle reissue, the 2020 Captain Willard radiates the spirit of the good old times with a touch of modern feel that does not take away from the overall vintage feel.

Seiko Prospex SPB151 Captain Willard 2020 edition is a true chameleon. Here, in an elegant and modern combination with a 20mm Quick Release FKM28 White FKM Rubber Watch Strap

To conclude (for a brief moment)

Seiko has always been one of those companies that is equally inclined to revolutionizing the industry with groundbreaking watches and at the same time listening to the needs and desires of the "common people". Very often, they manage to do both at the same time; the examples of such impactful combinations are listed above.

After all, being strapped to actual working divers, military personnel, and adventure seekers worldwide earned Seiko the recognition and popularity that has been ongoing for decades now without showing any signs of stopping. Their effort in producing people's dive watches, the continuous technical progression, and the ability to create watches that have features usually expected from watches that cost ten times more will undoubtedly continue, giving Seiko diver fans always something to look forward to.

Written by S.K., images by Toni

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