June 05, 2024 5 min read
Getting a hold of a new-old-stock Breitling Navitimer 92 is a sheer stroke of luck by any means. Taking the opportunity to showcase it with an overview of the history of the infamous Breitling Navitimer history, is something that simply cannot be missed. Let's seize it together
Writing about any watch from the Breitling Navitimer collection simply has to begin with an overview of its history. Which is not an easy task since Navitimer's history is somewhat mysterious and clouded. Breitling's early archives have been lost, and the available data on the Navitimer beginnings are scarce.
On the other hand, in Breitling's own words, Navitimer is the most iconic member of the Breitling family. It surely has something to do with the mystery surrounding it, but also with a number of crafty mechanical and design innovations and novelty touches.
The original strong masculinity of the Navitimer 92 is even more elevated when paired with a 20mm Tapered "SHARK" Mesh Polished Stainless Steel Watch Strap
The first Navitimer was introduced in 1952, made as a custom order from the US Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association. Its revolutionary design and solutions inspired its epithet of a wrist-sized computer, some 20 years before the pocket-sized electronic calculator became available on a larger scale. The reason for such a nickname lies in the fact that it made it possible for pilots to undergo all needed flight calculations, such as tachymeter calculated average speed, distance flown, fuel consumption, climb or descent rate, as well as the conversion of miles to both nautical miles and kilometers.
In 1956, Navitimer became available to the general audience, featuring the Breitling logo and the infamous 806 reference stamped on the caseback. The first Navitimers featured the beaded bezel (containing around 125 beads) of various sizes, depending on the model. The later ones, made after 1964, came with the milled edge bezel and featured a different twin-jet logo and Breitling Geneva writing below it.
In the years to come, the position of the Breitling Geneva writing changed in several models, and the design of the logo went back and forth between the twin-jet one and the original winged logo. Just as did the use of various movements, from the original Valjoux 72, across a Venus 178 of the reference 806 that had several dial variations, to Valjoux 7740, Lemania‐born manual‐wound chronograph movement, as well as Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01 and a split-second chronograph caliber.
Gentle elegance in the spotlight: the smaller case of Navitimer 92 allows for subtle strap combinations, such as one with a 20 mm Khaki Alcantara Fabric Quick Release Watch Strap with Beige Stitching
The most obvious differences between various Navitimer models are the variations in dial design, case diameter, and the number of beads used in the early models. The latter varied from 125 in the early 1950s to 93 in the 1960s. Various dial designs were used for different models and markets, while case diameter varied from 41mm of the original AOPA model from 1952, over 36.5mm of our featured Navitimer 92, to the staggering 48mm of Navitimer reference 816 from 1970, to name just a few.
Navitimer even made it to space on May 24, 1962. Lt. Cmdr. Scott Carpenter wore the Cosmonaute on his Aurora 7 mission, making it the first ever Swiss-made watch to go into outer space. Finally, during its prolific 70 years of innovation and change, the Navitimer was worn by astronauts, famous sportsmen, musicians, pilots, and common people alike, earning a legendary status over the years.
Breitling Navitimer 92 and Miles Davis Kind of Blue radiance with FKM Rubber 20mm Curved End Navy Blue revolutionary the Wheels watch strap
Now, let's put a spotlight on the main features and specifics of Breitling Navitimer 92.
Also listed as Breitling Chronograph Navitimer 806 (Ref A30022) was made from 1992 to 1996. Being an outlier of the series on several levels, it earned a legendary status among Navitimer fans. The most obvious specs that separate it from its kin are the smaller 36.5mm case and the 38mm serrated bezel that features the functions of the Chronomat 40 instead of the E6B Flight Computer functions characteristic of the majority of other Navitimers.
The ultimate business appeal of A30022 in combination with Q.R. 20mm Brown Leather CrocoCalf (crocodile skin pattern) Semi-curved Watch Strap
Navitimer 92 dial comes in various colors, black being the most prominent one. Our featured model comes with a deep blue dial, which makes it even more charming. On the other hand, there are three details present in A30022 that are characteristic of all Navitimer dials:
Breitling Navitimer 92 A30022 deep blue dial with characteristic lumed Arabics indexes and red details
The workforce behind Navitimer 92 pristine operation is the Breitling caliber 30. That's an automatic winding movement, a combination of an ETA base movement and a chronograph module constructed by Dubois Depraz. It's shielded by a screwed steel case with a logo-dominated caseback.
The serrated pointed notch slide rule bezel is bidirectional, featuring rotating telemetry, another gem of the Navitimer series. Other notable features of A30022 are:
Another great thing about the Navitimer 92 is its chameleon nature that opens infinite possibilities for combining with a wide palette of watch straps. Regardless of which out-of-the-box strap it came with, there is a myriad of other possible combinations, some of which are portrayed in the featured photos.
Navitimer 92 is a true chameleon. It fits any setting perfectly, among other sporty elegant when paired with Artisan Tan Italian Handmade Leather Watch Band of Unique Appearance
Navitimes is at home in almost every setting immaginable. From sporty and casual for everyday use to wildly contrasting when you wish to make an entrance, as well as utterly elegant for any formal occasion you may think of.
Vibrant and eclectic matching of Navitimer 92 and a modern version FKM rubber 20mm Tropical-Style Yellow watch strap
All in all, it would be a great addition to any collection, just as well as a single watch to own, the one-to-go model for practically any occasion in life. One thing is certain, the person wearing it would not go unnoticed regardless of the setting.
Written by S.K., images by Toni
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September 17, 2024 6 min read
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