YEMA Skin Diver CMM.20: Where Vintage Meets Innovation

French watchmaker YEMA continues to make waves in the watch industry with its 2024 Skin Diver CMM.20 collection. Building on the success of last year's limited-edition release, YEMA has expanded the lineup with new standard production models in varied colorways. Let's dive into what makes this watch special and why it has caught the attention of watch enthusiasts worldwide.

The History: YEMA's Diving Legacy

YEMA's connection to dive watches stretches back to 1948 when the brand was founded. However, it was in the 1960s that YEMA truly made its mark in the dive watch category with models like Superman. The original skin divers were characterized by their slim profiles, modest water resistance (compared to professional dive watches), and elegant designs that could transition from underwater adventures to evening events.

The 1965 YEMA Superman - where the Skin Diver story began, showcasing the distinctive DNA that would evolve through generations.

The new Skin Diver CMM.20 draws inspiration from these vintage pieces while incorporating YEMA's latest technological advances.

The Case: Vintage Proportions, Modern Execution

The standard Skin Diver CMM.20 features a 39mm stainless steel case with a lug-to-lug distance of 46.5mm – dimensions that harken back to the golden era of skin divers while remaining thoroughly modern in their wearability. The case features alternating polished and brushed surfaces, with the signature skin diver styling of tapered lugs and an unguarded crown.

The Skin Diver Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition displays its refined profile and sapphire bezel, while on the right, its Superman heritage adorns the wrist.

At 11.3mm in thickness, the watch maintains an elegant profile that allows it to slide easily under a shirt cuff while retaining the robust construction expected of a modern dive watch.

Water resistance is rated at 200 meters (660 feet), significantly exceeding the capabilities of the vintage models that inspired it, making the modern incarnation suitable for serious diving activities.

The Bezel: Functional Elegance

The unidirectional rotating bezel features a sapphire insert with luminous markings – a modern update to the bakelite bezels of yesteryear. The 120-click mechanism provides precise timing adjustments with a satisfying tactile feedback. The coin-edge design ensures easy grip even with wet hands or diving gloves.

The Dial: Vintage Charm with Modern Legibility

The dial layout is pure vintage skin diver, with applied indices featuring rectangular and triangular shapes. The handset consists of sword-style hour and minute hands with a lollipop seconds hand - all generously filled with Super-LumiNova for excellent nighttime visibility.

Warm beige tones evoke the patina of treasured vintage timepieces in this distinctive Skin Diver CMM.20 variant.

Available in a range of colorways including classic black, ocean blue, and several other options, the dial features a subtle sunburst finish that catches the light beautifully. The YEMA logo and model designation are printed in a period-appropriate font, completing the vintage aesthetic.

Red accents catch the eye on the dial, while the transparent case back reveals the intricate micro-rotor movement beating at the heart of the CMM.20.

The Movement: The Crown Jewel

What truly sets the Skin Diver CMM.20 apart is what's beating inside. The watch is powered by YEMA's in-house Caliber Manufacture Morteau (CMM.20) - a micro-rotor movement that represents a significant technical achievement for the French brand.

Innovation in miniature - the sophisticated micro-rotor of YEMA's in-house Caliber Manufacture Morteau movement powers the Skin Diver CMM.20.

The CMM.20 is a self-winding mechanical movement featuring:

• 31 jewels
• 28,800 vph (4Hz) frequency
• 70-hour power reserve
• Micro-rotor design allowing for the slim profile
• -10/+10 seconds per day accuracy
• YEMA's Stability System for shock protection

The micro-rotor configuration is particularly noteworthy as it's typically found in watches from high-end manufacturers at much higher price points. By using a smaller, denser oscillating weight, YEMA has managed to reduce the overall thickness of the movement without sacrificing performance or power reserve.

The Bracelet: A Nod to History

YEMA's Iconic Scales Design

The Skin Diver CMM.20 comes equipped with YEMA's distinctive scales-style bracelet, inspired by the brand's vintage designs from the 1960s. This unique bracelet features a pattern of elongated hexagons that creates a distinctive snakeskin-like appearance, setting it apart from more common bracelet styles seen on dive watches today.

Each link in YEMA's signature scales bracelet creates a distinctive snakeskin pattern unlike anything else in the dive watch world.

The bracelet gradually tapers from the lugs to the clasp, naturally adapting to the wrist's shape with its flexible scale-link design and features a double-security folding clasp with micro-adjustment system.

This distinctive bracelet style exemplifies how vintage watch design extends beyond just the case and dial to include the complete wearing experience. The scales bracelet is reminiscent of an era when watchmakers created unique bracelet designs that were as much a part of the watch's identity as the timepiece itself.

StrapCode's Premium Alternatives

As specialists in premium watch bracelets, we at StrapCode have developed several options that would elevate the vintage charm of the Skin Diver CMM.20 while adding our signature engineering excellence:

The Goma: Vintage Elegance Reimagined

Looking to enhance your vintage diver with a touch of refinement? The StrapCode Goma features our interpretation of the classic beads-of-rice design that gained popularity during the mid-20th century alongside many iconic sport watches. Each precisely crafted link creates a satisfying interplay of light and shadow, with alternating polished and brushed elements creating visual depth. Our modern engineering ensures the bracelet maintains its form and function over years of wear, with solid links providing a substantial feel while maintaining remarkable flexibility. The Goma's graceful taper enhances wrist comfort while perfectly complementing the vintage proportions and aesthetic of the Skin Diver CMM.20.

Polished and brushed surfaces create stunning light play across the Goma's beads-of-rice design - StrapCode's premium take on a vintage classic.

The Asteroid: Bold Geometric Expression

The Asteroid bracelet brings a bold geometric pattern that echoes the angular design language of 1960s tool watches. Its distinctive link structure provides excellent ventilation during summer months and creates a striking visual rhythm that draws attention to your timepiece. We've refined the traditionally rigid design by engineering subtle articulation points between links, resulting in a bracelet that conforms to your wrist despite its architectural appearance. The combination of brushed surfaces with polished facets creates a dynamic play of light that enhances the Skin Diver's vintage appeal.

Angular links of the Asteroid watch band form a bold geometric statement while maintaining surprising flexibility through innovative engineering.

The Super-J II QR: Classic Style Meets Modern Convenience

Want the perfect balance between vintage style and modern convenience? The StrapCode Super-J II QR. delivers the classic five-link design beloved by watch enthusiasts since the mid-20th century but reimagined with our cutting-edge quick-release technology. The precisely engineered links drape around your wrist with remarkable fluidity, while the substantial clasp provides security without bulk. Each bracelet is meticulously finished to eliminate sharp edges, allowing all-day comfort whether you're in the boardroom or exploring coastal waters. With our tool-free quick-release system, you can swap to another strap in seconds when the occasion demands, making the Super-J II QR the ultimate expression of versatility for the discerning collector.

Five-link perfection meets modern convenience in the Super-J II QR, with tool-free quick-release technology hidden beneath its classic exterior.

Versatility Through Personalization

The versatility of the Skin Diver CMM.20's design allows it to pair beautifully with these premium bracelet options, giving owners the freedom to create their own unique wearing experience while honoring the watch's heritage.

The Verdict: A Compelling Blend of Old and New

The YEMA Skin Diver CMM.20 successfully walks the fine line between vintage homage and modern innovation. At a competitive price point in the mid-range luxury segment, it represents a significant value proposition when considering the in-house micro-rotor movement and thoughtful design.

For those who appreciate the historical significance of skin divers but demand modern reliability and performance, the Skin Diver CMM.20 offers a compelling package with its expanded color options and refined execution.

YEMA continues to demonstrate that a brand doesn't need centuries of history or the backing of a luxury conglomerate to create watches that speak to enthusiasts. The Skin Diver CMM.20 is proof that thoughtful design, technical innovation, and respect for heritage can come together to create something truly special in the mid-luxury watch segment.

Written by Vienna C. , images by Toni and others as noted