Mechanical watches maintenance, tips and tricks to keep in mind

The stories you read and hear, or live for that matter, are true; mechanical watches are regularly passed down through generations. Their mechanisms are a genuine work of art, and the level of craftsmanship involved in their creation has been awe-inspiring to horology fans for centuries now. Regardless of their price range, all mechanical watches are based on the same principles: a masterful arrangement of hundreds of parts made of different materials into a pristine operating mechanism housed in a tiny case, designed and built to last for centuries. Under one condition, regular maintenance.

At the IWC Watchmaking Masterclass, skill, patience, and a sharp eye are required to treat such a delicate device as a mechanical watch mechanism

That goes for all mechanical watches, from those with a couple of hundred-dollar price tags to those that list for five or six figures. The parts they consist of require regular care and maintenance to ensure they operate durably and smoothly. The maintenance steps involve actions that can be done at home and those that require a pro service, depending on the watch owner's level of expertise and the tools available. Let's discuss all aspects of regular mechanical watch maintenance to ensure our watches receive the care they both deserve and require for longevity and the pristine performance they are designed to deliver.

Why (regular) service matters?

Different mechanical watches are created to serve various purposes. From everyday watches to those designed for specific uses, such as military and space exploration, among many others. However, regardless of their primary designation, they are all susceptible to the effects of the environments in which they are used.  Why is this the case?

Individual parts of mechanical mechanisms are made of different materials. Among others, different types of metal, rubber, and silicon, as well as real and synthetic jewels, depending on the manufacturer and the era in which a particular watch was produced. All these materials are influenced by external and internal operation factors. Major factors that continually impact the operation of the mechanical watch mechanism include friction, magnetism, temperature changes, and shocks.

At the IWC Watchmaking Masterclass, every little detail needs to be checked, and every part needs to be accurately positioned for the mechanism to operate with full precision.

Although over the years new materials were introduced and maintenance approaches slightly changed, the original requirement has remained: occasional service matters, but it's the regular skilled service that ensures decades, and even centuries, of pristine operation and durability of an individual mechanical watch. Some service tasks can be performed by owners themselves, depending on their skill level and the tools available. However, more complex service tasks are best left to certified professionals to ensure the best results and a longer guarantee that everything was diligently performed.

Areas that require regular and timely attention

Given the construction of the mechanical movement, it's inevitable that certain areas will eventually need to be remedied to maintain stable, precise operation. First of all, since the mechanism consists of a number of moving parts, they need to be sufficiently lubricated to operate flawlessly. Luckily, nowadays synthetic oils are used to lubricate watches instead of the natural oils used back in the day. When it comes to maintenance, that means it needs to be done significantly less frequently than before. However, dust and humidity take their toll, especially if the watch is worn and used constantly. As a result, watches require regular lubrication.

It's always best to do it before signs of faulty operation and lowered accuracy appear. Lubricating the mechanical watch mechanism follows a standard procedure. The mechanism is fully disassembled, all parts thoroughly cleaned, and joints lubricated during reassembly.

At the IWC Watchmaking Masterclass, for proper lubrication, the mechanism must be fully disassembled, each joint lubricated, and everything assembled flawlessly.

During disassembly, service personnel will check all parts for the second-most-common maintenance area requiring regular attention: wear. Once again, a certain degree of wear naturally occurs over time due to how the mechanism operates and the constant friction between its moving parts. If they show signs of wear, they need to be replaced in time to avoid further damage. Of course, the replacement parts must comply with the manufacturer's specifications whenever possible. Unfortunately, there will be times when replacement parts are needed due to the impossibility of finding original parts. Still, the ultimate goal is to have a fully functional, reliable watch, and sometimes we'll need to sacrifice something to achieve it.

At the Jaeger-LeCoultre Watchmaking Masterclass, it takes years of practice, experience, expertise, patience and the right tools to perform regular service of mechanical watches

Most routine maintenance can be performed by a local watch repair shop. On the other hand, for more complicated mechanisms, especially those built in-house, shipping to the manufacturer's repair shop is strongly recommended. People working there are often the only ones who have the skill to service the original, complex mechanisms, and they have the specialized tools and original parts available. Several of these complex mechanisms will be discussed in the following paragraph in more detail.

Some of the complex mechanisms that should be serviced solely by specialized shops.

- Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch 3573.50.00

Featuring a chronograph complication and driving three subdials, Caliber 1863, which powers this famous Omega Speedmaster, is a complex mechanism. Just disassembling and reassembling it is a mission impossible for anyone other than the team working in Omega's designated workshop. Knowing which parts are particularly prone to wear and which joints should be lubricated more frequently gives the Omega service team an additional recommendation.

At the heart of Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch 3573.50.00 lies a mechanical calibre 1863, the famous manual-winding movement worn on the Moon

Pairing the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch 3573.50.00 with a 20mm Taupe Buttero Italian Calf Watch Strap creates an elegance suitable for every business and elegant occasion.

- IWC Pilot Watch Chronograph 41 Miramar IW388117

IW388117's powerhorse, Calibre 69385, is another engineering marvel. Driving a pilot watch, with all its specifics, and being 100m water-resistant at the same time requires a special capability. This special mechanism is automatic and consists of 231 parts. The recommended regular service period is every 5 to 7 years, primarily for lubricant replacement and wear inspection. In addition, seals that provide water resistance should be inspected annually if the watch is regularly used underwater.

A close look into the interior of an IWC Pilot Watch Chronograph 41 Miramar IW388117 reveals a diligent operation of Calibre 69385, a renowned automatic mechanism

IWC Pilot Watch Chronograph 41 Miramar IW388117 radiates a modern casual vibe when paired with a 22mm FKM34 Off-White Rubber Watch Strap. A great pairing for everyone who likes eclectic yet elegant combinations.

- Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Spectre James Bond Watch 231.10.42.21.03.004

The pulse of this limited-edition Omega watch is driven by a truly special mechanism: the Omega Master Co-Axial Caliber 8507. This automatic mechanism features a unique skeletonized rotor design, cut and shaped to resemble a gun barrel. Thanks to its silicon hairspring and the Co-Axial escapement that require less lubrication, Caliber 8507 has longer service intervals - every 5 to 8 years is recommended. Although this recommended period can generally be extended, since this watch uses the Co-Axial escapement and advanced anti-magnetic technology, regular maintenance by a certified service, including annual checks for a 150m water resistance, is a must.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Spectre James Bond Watch 231.10.42.21.03.004's backcase, showing Caliber 8507 that features a hollow rotor and a gun barrel design, is a unique sighting, all the way

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Spectre James Bond Watch 231.10.42.21.03.004 Yellow FKM35 Sailcloth FKM Quick Release Rubber Watch Band

- Panerai Bronzo PAM00507

PAM00507 is one of the watches that instantly grabs attention. Unique aesthetics, unusual case material, and crown shield design cannot go unnoticed. The awe further deepens when the inside is observed. The Bronzo pulses in the rhythm of The Panerai P.9002. It's an in-house automatic calibre with a 3-day power reserve, a GMT function, and a seconds reset device, featuring two barrels and consisting of 237 components. Just like any other complex and authentic in-house mechanism, Panerai P.9002 requires regular maintenance at the manufacturer's. Service should be performed every five to six years for lubrication and wear, and once a year/two years for seal checks that ensure water resistance, depending on the frequency of underwater use.

The insight into Panerai Bronzo PAM00507's automatic mechanical, Panerai P.9002 calibre, with its  13¾ lignes, two barrels, and seconds reset device

The unusual design of Panerai Bronzo PAM00507 is naturally extended when paired with a 26mm Gunny X MT Caitlin 10 Ivory Tan Handmade Leather Watch Strap. Such symbiosis radiates both a modern and a vintage feel, creating a unique combination that will leave no one untouched.

- 1952 Omega Gold Capped Seamaster

Now, time for one of Omega's timeless classics that are still highly sought after by vintage watch lovers, the famous 1952 Gold Capped Seamaster. It features, at the time, a very advanced and unusual mechanism, Caliber 354. What's so special about it that makes it still intriguing?

Caliber 354 is a bumper movement, named for its rotor operation, which winds the watch by "bumping" against two springs at either end of its rotation. This causes the rotor to reverse direction and wind the mainspring in the opposite direction. This unique modus operandi offers lower precision than modern mechanical calibers, therefore requiring more frequent service and maintenance. Once again, for the best and most durable results, it should be done at the manufacturer's service shops.

The close-up view of the back of the vintage Omega Seamaster with a bumper rotor on a 354 caliber, known for its distinctive sound and large oscillating weight.

Vintage yet timeless elegance of the 1952 Omega Gold Capped Seamaster with a Honeycomb Dial is perfectly matched and elevated by a Quick Release Black CrocoCalf (Italian Croco Grain) Watch Strap

Daily/Home Care vs. Pro Service

First, let's repeat why complex service activities should be left to professionals for several major reasons. They:

• own the schematics of the mechanisms for the safest assembly and disassembly,
• know exactly which areas need to be checked for possible wear and tear,
• are proficient in applying just enough lubrication for the flawless operation. Too much or not enough can cause further damage,
• have access to original parts when replacement is needed,
• operate tools for ultrasonic cleaning of cases,
• and have years of experience and expertise in watch regulation service (adjusting mechanisms to ensure they maintain their timekeeping accuracy)

At the IWC Watchmaking Masterclass, having an extra paw always comes in handy

However, there are things we can and should do as part of our home care to ensure we do all we can to create conditions for the enduring, precise operation of our beloved watches. The three areas that can be taken care of at home on a daily basis are :

• winding.
  This brief activity is often overlooked in regular maintenance. Regular daily winding maintains the balance wheel's oscillation amplitude in its "sweet spot" and ensures maximum precision. Moreover, regular winding prevents lubrication oil from settling and secures its even distribution. Finally, a prolonged full seizure of operation affects the precision of mechanical watches, and in cases of complex complications, such as perpetual calendars and moon-phase watches, this can require resetting them to restore proper function. A time-consuming and costly operation that can be easily avoided with regular winding. An important thing to remember: wind a watch slowly and carefully to avoid damaging the spring. Stop when you feel resistance, and everything will be OK.
• proper storage.
  Storing a mechanical watch in a suitable environment helps ensure it runs properly over the long term. Things to avoid at all costs and whenever possible are exposure to moisture and humidity, dirt and dust, strong sunlight and UV rays, and temperature fluctuations. The best place to keep the watch when it's unused is in its original box, away from the external influences listed above. An isolated desk drawer and a shelf are the first places that come to mind, but any other secluded one works.
• magnetism avoidance.
  Regardless of a watch's antimagnetic properties, keeping it away from strong magnetic fields is always recommended. Therefore, keep it away from speakers, smartphones, and refrigerator magnets alike; all of them can affect the precision of the mechanical watch, and prolonged exposure to a magnetic field can even cause it to stop.

A brief recap

Mechanical watches are beautiful and delicate. With a bit of daily care and regular service, they remain trusty and diligent companions for life. Our life, that is, since they'll easily outlive us if taken due care, and thus become a value passed onto the generations, and another thing our successors will remember us for. Quite worth the attention and effort, don't you think?

Written by S.K., images by Toni